Tehran

Prior to going to Iran, my expectations of the country were to some extent influenced by films such as Argo and Persepolis. These films take place mostly in Tehran. They show a city in a state of revolutionary fervor, a cauldron of Kalashnikov-wielding religious fanatics that march down the street chanting "Death to the USA!" and that look with extreme suspicion at anything that looks "Western". I knew the city would be different from that -the Islamic Revolution was 36 year ago, after all- but I didn't know what to expect. Would there be Revolutionary Guards everywhere? What would the locals be wearing? Would I be followed everywhere by the religious police?

Of course, none of the above materialized. Tehran is a vibrant, chaotic, diverse city of 15 million people. It is not qualitatively different from other megacities in developing countries. It is normal, so normal that at times I was disappointed that it wasn't more exotic. Indeed, at times I was struck by its similarities with Mexico City. There is a mix of modernity and tradition, and also a certain melancholy hanging in the air -it is clear that the city has seen better times. A Revolution, followed by a devastating eight year war with Iraq, followed by painful economic sanctions: Tehran has had it rough in recent decades.

The only truly "exotic" or quirky thing that there is, is the wall of the former American embassy. The compound is now officially called the "Den of Espionage" and it is now a facility of the Revolutionary Guards I think. Most Iranians that I know are embarrassed by these murals because they contribute to the image that Iran hates the USA, Israel and the West. Nevertheless, the murals have historical value insofar as they convey effectively the official view of the government: that Iran lives threatened by the American/Israelis, who might strike anytime. Real or not, the ghost of the foreign attack serves (much like it did for a long time in Cuba's Castro regime) to unify the country and legitimize its leadership.

This one speaks for itself

Ayatollah Khomeini

It is a common belief in Iran that the USA is controlled
by Israel (indeed, that Israel controls the world)

American gun versus Islamic art

Aside from its ugly expressways and tattered concrete buildings, Tehran has a lot to offer: the city is generously sprinkled with well-manicured parks, it has plenty of museums, art galleries and architectural jewels, and it is the throbbing economic, political and cultural heart of the country. And, unusual for such large cities, its people are friendly and welcoming. I was regularly addressed by Iranians in buses or at parks who simply wanted to know where I was from, why I was in Iran and how I was liking the city (I was even offered accommodation one time).  

Every megalopolis has oases of peace

North Tehran with the Albroz mountain range as backdrop

Besides the quirky anti-American propaganda, two other things that strike the eye of the casual foreign traveler about Tehran are the ubiquitous Ayatollah portraits and the total absence of Western chains. That's right: a city without McDonald's and Starbucks, without H&M and Marriott, without Toyota car dealerships or licensed Mac Stores. The consequences of the economic sanctions are thus rendered visible to the naked eye. Essentially, Iranians and Iranian companies can't buy almost anything directly from Western nations plus Japan and South Korea. This includes cars, which is why almost all cars in Iran are Iranian-made. That does not mean, however, that Iran is not a consumption society. It certainly is. People want (and have) mobile phones, cars, homes, fancy clothes, gadgets and the like. Western products do make it into the country, but they are first imported into a third country, which then re-exports the wares to Iran. Iran is today the 18th largest economy in the world measured by purchasing power -when the sanctions are finally scrapped this is gonna be a buoyant market.

Smartphones are advertised under the intimidating glance of the
 late Ayatollah Khomeini, the leader of the Islamic Revolution of 1979.

Definitely no official licensed stores, but you will find the phone

This is how a good Islamic family should look like

North Tehran, looking south

Is Tehran a pretty city? No, I wouldn't say that. It's a fairly modern city and thus does not have the historical core that makes cities such as Isfahan, Shiraz or Yazd so appealing. But it's Iran's most forward-looking city and it has been the most important theater of recent Iranian history. And it does have a number of worthy sights: Golestan Palace, the former American embassy, the Central Bazaar, the National Museum, Azadi (freedom) square, plus its many perky parks. The city has lots of good food and sells all the stuff you could ever want. All in all I spent in Tehran 3 full days (2 at the start of the trip and 1 at the end) and I am happy with that.

Entrance to Metro station Azadi Square

The view to the north

A fantastic Iranian hamburger with turkey bacon and beef.

Oh, there is something else I wanted to talk about -the paternalistic nuggets of life advice provided by verses of the Quran which are printed on large bilingual signs and hanged on the fences of all government properties. But that probably deserves a post of its own so I will cut it out here.